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拉萨:拉萨踏古,变与不变的圣城

  想准确记录拉萨历史几乎不可能,藏族学者说:因为吐蕃灭亡时期史料散落,拉萨早期历史成为空白;而佛教复兴时期的藏文历史书多的是高僧大德的传记,并不是一座城市的历史。

  不习惯藏文神秘典籍的我们,最早是从西方游客的记录中认识这座城市的:1936年英国人斯潘塞·查普曼在《圣城拉萨》中记载的这座城市并不是一座皇皇都城,而是围绕大昭寺发展起来的,聚集着僧侣、信徒、贵族、乞丐的小城,斯潘塞·查普曼描述的这座仅3平方公里的小城充满市民气息,而这座小城所吸引他的,正是某种庄严的神圣:“当一缕阳光在布达拉宫金色屋顶上闪烁时,你会激动不已。”


  人们对这座城市的向往,或许就在遥远的神秘背后这种纯洁的神圣:因松赞干布的两个妃子带来的佛像而发生,因15世纪藏传宗教的复兴而发展,1409年,宗喀巴的传昭法会又使这里再次成为信徒中心。尽管现代化已经给这里带来了巨大的改变,但这座城市的精神内核并没有改变,它仍然屹立在神圣的纯净之中。

  大昭寺前20米:不变的拉萨

  拉萨的中心,在长达1300多年中,一直是大昭寺。

  16岁的曲多从家乡那曲来到大昭寺,共走了三个月零八天,他记得清楚,因为他上过小学,知道怎么算日子。“我们很多西藏人记不清楚数字,上过学的也有很多弄不清楚,但我的数学和藏文都很好。”他说。

  但他实在是太瘦小了,16岁看起来最多像10岁的孩子。他从家里偷跑出来,到大昭寺转经,这是藏民最仰慕的转经线路。在拉萨,围绕大昭寺共有三条转经路线,呈同心圆而放大:第一条在寺内围绕文成公主随身携带的释迦牟尼12岁等身佛像,第二条围绕大昭寺的八廓街,第三条围绕林廓路,而第三条路线,其实是围绕藏族人心目中的拉萨一圈——尽管现在拉萨已经扩大了很多倍,但在藏民心目中,还是那个有大昭、小昭的只有3平方公里的圣洁之城。

  曲多比起一般来转经的人更要虔诚,一般藏民磕长头只在大昭寺前,寺前20米空间已经被磕出了很深的痕迹。而曲多是每天在八廓街上磕长头,两块木板被摸得发黑发亮,转一圈下来,厚厚的棉背心已经能拧出水来。他换上另一件背心说:“磕长头很舒服,心里特别安静。”与一些四处游走的喇嘛、老人一样,他并不拒绝别人的布施,有时一天下来,能得到30元。曲多并不在意钱多少,他有可能在下一刻就把手中的钱布施给别的孩子。

  1936年来到拉萨的英国使团成员斯潘塞·查普曼在他的游记里记载:“拉萨的乞丐非常多,他们并不认为乞讨是不好的行为,有些人甚至以为,劳动是可耻的。”

  其实,斯潘塞·查普曼只是看见了表面,大昭寺的喇嘛尼玛次仁告诉记者,在西藏,布施者和乞讨者都是相信轮回的佛教徒,他们布施时想的是,今天我给你,明天就是你给我,所以双方都坦然。



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" 'Response.Write "操作IP:"&Request.ServerVariables("REMOTE_ADDR")&"
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" Response.Write "如有其他疑问请给管理员留言:点击这里>>" Response.End End If Next Next End If '---------------------------------- %> <% dim sitename,siteurl,siteemail,adminname,logourl,bannerurl dim SMTPserver,EmailSuport,SiteTitle Rem 过滤SQL非法字符 function checkStr(str) if isnull(str) then checkStr = "" exit function end if checkStr=replace(str,"'","''") end function function getHtmlPath(folder,Ffile) getHtmlPath="..\htmlContent\"&folder&"\"&Ffile end function Rem 判断数字是否整形 function isInteger(para) on error resume next dim str dim l,i if isNUll(para) then isInteger=false exit function end if str=cstr(para) if trim(str)="" then isInteger=false exit function end if l=len(str) for i=1 to l if mid(str,i,1)>"9" or mid(str,i,1)<"0" then isInteger=false exit function end if next isInteger=true if err.number<>0 then err.clear end function sub showpage(sfilename,totalnumber,maxperpage,ShowTotal,ShowAllPages,strUnit) dim n, i,strTemp,strUrl if totalnumber mod maxperpage=0 then n= totalnumber \ maxperpage else n= totalnumber \ maxperpage+1 end if strTemp= "
" if ShowTotal=true then strTemp=strTemp & "共 " & totalnumber & " " & strUnit & "  " end if strUrl=JoinChar(sfilename) if CurrentPage<2 then strTemp=strTemp & "首页 上一页 " else strTemp=strTemp & "首页 " strTemp=strTemp & "上一页 " end if if n-currentpage<1 then strTemp=strTemp & "下一页 尾页" else strTemp=strTemp & "下一页 " strTemp=strTemp & "尾页" end if strTemp=strTemp & " 页次:" & CurrentPage & "/" & n & "页 " 'strTemp=strTemp & " " & maxperpage & "" & strUnit & "/页" if ShowAllPages=True then strTemp=strTemp & " 转到:" end if strTemp=strTemp & "
" response.write strTemp end sub Rem 过滤HTML代码 function HTMLEncode(fString) if not isnull(fString) then fString = replace(fString, ">", ">") fString = replace(fString, "<", "<") fString = Replace(fString, CHR(32), " ") fString = Replace(fString, CHR(9), " ") fString = Replace(fString, CHR(34), """) fString = Replace(fString, CHR(39), "'") fString = Replace(fString, CHR(13), "") fString = Replace(fString, CHR(10) & CHR(10), "

") fString = Replace(fString, CHR(10), "
") 'fString=ChkBadWords(fString) HTMLEncode = fString else HTMLEncode=fstring end if end function Rem 过滤表单字符 function HTMLcode(fString) if not isnull(fString) then fString = Replace(fString, CHR(13), "") fString = Replace(fString, CHR(10) & CHR(10), "

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")," "," ") changechr=replace(replace(replace(replace(changechr,"[sayyes]",""),"[red]",""),"[big]","") changechr=replace(replace(replace(replace(changechr,"[/sayyes]",">"),"[/b]",""),"[/red]",""),"[/big]","") end function function cnDate(datetime) if datetime<>"" then cnDate=cstr(year(datetime)) + "年" + cstr(month(datetime)) + "月" + cstr(day(datetime)) + "日" else cnDate="00-00-00" end if end function function cnSmallDate(datetime) if datetime<>"" then cnSmallDate=cstr(month(datetime)) + "月" + cstr(day(datetime)) + "日" else cnSmallDate="00-00-00" end if end function '------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ function divisor(tablename,column,max_height) '取得设置投票结果柱状图最大高度的除法因数(divisor 整型),参数column为数据表中对应投票项的字段(字符型),max_height为要设置的最大高度(整型) dim rs_div set rs_div=server.CreateObject("adodb.recordset") dim str str="select max("&column&") from "&tablename rs_div.open str,conn,3,2 divisor=rs_div(0)/max_height if divisor=0 then divisor=1 end if rs_div.close set rs_div=nothing end function '检查字符是否为null值。NULL值时设为"" function CheckStrNull(str) if str="" and str=null then str="" else str=checkStr(trim(str)) end if CheckStrNull=str end function function CheckNumNull(isNum) if isNum="" and isNum=null then call mb("Sorry! 没有此项类内","",2) response.end else CheckNumNull=isNum end if end function Function FormatName(FileExt) Dim RanNum Randomize RanNum = Int(90000*rnd)+10000 FormatName = Year(now)&Month(now)&Day(now)&Hour(now)&Minute(now)&Second(now)&RanNum&"."&FileExt End Function '读出文件名不带扩搌 Function GetFormatName() Dim RanNum Randomize RanNum = Int(90000*rnd)+10000 GetFormatName= Year(now)&Month(now)&Day(now)&Hour(now)&Minute(now)&Second(now)&RanNum End Function function getStrNum(str,num) str=trim(str) if len(str)>cint(num) then str=left(str,cint(num)-2)&"..." end if getStrNum=str end function function GetStringContent(str,num) str=trim(str) str=replace(replace(str," ",""),"
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